Friday, July 24, 2009

Necessary Hot Sauce, Part Four: Sriracha

I debated whether to even bother with this post. It's like standing in a town square, under the clock tower, and yelling the time to anyone who can hear. It's just redundant, given the public adoration for this new American legend.

I say American because the sriacha we know and love is different than what's available in Thailand or Vietnam. The Huy Fong Tướng Ớt (huh?) Sriracha, aka "Rooster Sauce" or "Cock Sauce", is made in Los Angeles, and is thicker and less sweet than its namesake. A staple amongst food carts, pho soup storefronts, and Thai joints, this stuff has become iconic. Recently, the NY Times gave it the feature treatment, and rightly so. Read it.

Being thicker and less sweet has its advantages. In my mind, its concentrated, thick-hot body lends itself to cooking more often than as a garnish (a little bit goes a loooong way). I've used it as a soup base, in hot wings, BBQ sauce, vinegarettes, or mixed with other condiments. Sriracha-mayo is an American sushi standard. Spiked ketchup with sriracha is a revelation. Endless are the possibilities. Cock Sauce is a story of hope and possibility in America! Cue the anthem and fireworks!

My only beef with the Rooster is that it's laden with preservatives. But hey, that beautiful red-orange hue can't keep itself together without the help of sodium bisulfite or artificial colors, and there's none of the latter. So there's that.

Given its popularity and concentrated nature, it's surprising sriracha isn't more expensive. If you don't have at least a small bottle in your fridge, there's no hope for you, And don't expect me to eat at your house, TV dinner guy.

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