Thursday, September 10, 2009

The People's Cut: Hanger Steak

I hesitate to even write this, for fear of exposing my BBQ secret. But I care about you, my five readers, and I don't want your precious, dirty money to be wasted yet again.

If there was justice in this world, Radiohead would be making U2 money, universal health care would be a birthright, and the lowly Hanger Steak would be worth more per pound than tenderloin. True, they're not interchangeable in the beef world, but there's so much less Hanger on the cow (one 1-1.5 lb loin). And if you ask the French, a butcher, or a French butcher, they'll tell you it's probably the most flavorful cut.

The problem is tenderloin has been fetishised to the point of absurdity, especially in this country. Older generations held it as a bourgeois indulgence for special occasions, the pinnacle of all charred flesh at a chophouse. It's not recession proof, however, as I've seen prices drop by as much as $8/lb. Even still, it's waaaay overpriced.

When citing the best examples of food in this world, more often than not it's street-level fare. If it contains meat, chances are good it's the cheap cuts. Food opportunism, I guess... the magic happens when you're forced to make something really good out of the forgotten bits. Here in America, the Hanger slipped through the cracks for no good reason though.

It's considered a 'butchers cut', mostly because they know what's up, and we generally don't. It has long fibrous tissue with a little fat in between, similar to Flank or Skirt steak. It sits at the belly of the cow, near the kidneys; the result is a rich, deep, beefy flavor. Each steak is perfectly portioned for the average person. By weight, it's a great bang for your buck... no bone or gristle waste. In other words, your efforts to cut expenses with cheap, dry, flavorless Round-Steak? Fail. If you prefer the taste, double-fail.

It's perfect if you want something fast to throw on the grill. I put a dry rub on it and cook it medium rare or rare. With a good sear on all three sides, it's tender and juicy. The bold flavor is strong enough to handle rubs with cumin, ancho powder or smoked paprika. I've had them sliced into tacos, but they're often served bistro-style with pommes frites. Either way, you're set.

The secret is probably out though, as prices have risen a buck or two recently. I've noticed many Portland restaurants use Hangers if there's only one steak option on the menu. Still, they cost a third as much as tenderloin, half as much as Flat Iron and Rib-eye, and often much cheaper than Sirloin and New Yorks. Enjoy the people's cut while you can...